How you can use oil to shade effortlessly and leisurely and still do all your glass painting (front and back) in a single firing
Why oil is wonderful to paint with
Most books on stained glass painting don’t tell you this, but oil has many benefits you must know about. For one thing, it’s far easier to shade with oil than water. Yes, because oil dries so slowly, you’re never rushed, and you therefore have the time to do it exactly as you want.
So, if you’re already familiar with glass paint mixed with gum and water, now’s maybe a good time to discover the advantages you’ll get by mixing paint with oil.
“What an eye-opener!” (Stephen Chapman, Maryland, USA)
OK, so here’s the basic process
First of all, you work your glass as usual, using glass paint mixed with gum and water. Trace and shade until you’re done. Now this is when you’d usually fire it in the kiln. Usually. But not with oil. No, with oil you carry on. Instead of firing, you now trace and shade some more. It’s wonderful. Here’s why …
You get so much more depth and visual interest with your water and oil technique, that I can’t wait to try it. I am totally thrilled” (Diane Armitage, California, US)
With oil, as I said. there’s never any rush.
Oil dries slowly, so you can shade it at your own pace. You have time to experiment and push the shadows around (unlike when you work with water).
What happens is: you paint your oil lines and shadows, then you take your blender and … move them exactly where you want them.
This is so unlike using glass paint mixed with water, it’s maybe difficult to imagine. But it’s true: yes, since oil dries slowly, you actually have time to move the shadows. You can actually push them from one side of the glass to another. You can soften them or strengthen them. You can even remove them altogether and start again.
And when you’re happy, you fire your glass. Just once.
“I am learning more from the information you have supplied me with than from anywhere else and I can’t tell you how very much I appreciate it” (Rebecca Cashin, Minnesota, US)
Another thing with oil: there’s no waste.
So, when you first start, you make more than you need, because it keeps for ages. It doesn’t harden or go stale. It doesn’t have a “Use Before” date. You make a thick paste – so thick you couldn’t actually paint with it, but like this it’s always ready for you to thin it to whatever consistency and strength you need, a little at a time.
After that, it’s so easy to adjust and get it right. Too light, too thin? Easy, just add a bit more paste. Too dark or won’t flow? Just add a bit more thinner – I’ll tell you what to use.
“I would like to say how much I like your guides – the instructions are very thorough. Often in the past I’ve felt like I’m being talked down to and I never reach a level of detail I need. But this has never been the case with your material” (Rod S., Georgia, US)
Oil is also clean
Clean-up is also quick and easy, and this saves you lots of time. Since the oil doesn’t dry on your palette, you just scrape it up and put it in a sealed jar for next time. Like I said, no waste. And it’s ready to go when you are (unlike glass paint mixed with water).
It’s also better for your health. No dust. Dust is messy. Dust is also harmful. Oil doesn’t dry, so there isn’t any dust, so none gets in your lungs. Even if you work with lead-free glass paint mixed with water, it’s still the dust you should avoid but can’t. With oil, there’s no problem. There’s never any dust.
“For the 12 years I’ve been painting, I’ve encountered many artists who guard their secrets (something I never understood). That’s why I really appreciate the opportunity to learn from both of you like this” (Mike McElhattan)
What you see is what you get
Now here’s another benefit of using oil: what you see is what you get.
Yes, when you just work with glass paint and water, you’ll find your paint will always lighten in the kiln. It’s a fact: you lose 10 – 15% because the fire burns off this much pigment before it fuses to your glass. So it’s lost – gone forever. Wasted.
And this is a problem because it means you have to learn to compensate. This means you must learn to paint far darker than you want it to be, which is difficult.
But with oil, you don’t lose any paint. Oil actually protects the lines and shadows which you’ve done beneath with water.
Wondering how it does this?
It’s because the oil is like a layer of varnish which seals your paint before you even fire it. So goodbye to guess-work. Goodbye to second firings. That’s another thing you’ll learn about here.
“Thanks for your great work on educating on glass painting” (Ab Evenhuis, The Netherlands)
How to mix a batch of oil-based glass paint and the best oils to use: I’ll explain everything.
“The chapters are very detailed and are very helpful: my thanks to you for such a great book with such a lot of information in it” (Varsha U., Bangalore, India)
Also, you’ll get 5 full-length projects, because everyone needs guidance. 100s of photos show you what you must aim for at each stage. You get a butterfly, phoenix, duck-in-flight (also uses enamels), a king’s head, and – very special because this is like a masterclass – you also get a human face. With each project, you see work-in-progress and also how your glass should look at the end of each stage. You understand exactly what you must copy.
“You two are the Masters. You know, Stephen, of all the books I have looked at in the library your chapters are the most helpful” (Eve H., California, USA)
Read and also watch
This is an immediate 65-page PDF download. But that’s not all: with each download comes a unique password. You can use this password to unlock your very own collection of 14 online demonstrations – that’s nearly two hours of free video so you learn exactly what to do. Watch as often as you like and when you like.
“You guys have an exquisite command of the English language (clear, concise, etc.) – but there is just nothing like a a demonstration to really clarify things” (Pat LeVan, North Carolina, US)
You have 60 days to read and watch. If you decide it’s not for you, you can have your money back at once, no questions asked.
One-time price for e-book and videos: just $13.95 – buy now
“Saint Martha” – Or: How to paint a stained glass face
You get 14 online videos include: how to paint a full-sized stained glass face: overview (15 minutes), how to prepare your glass (4 minutes), undercoating (3 minutes), copy-tracing a face (10 minutes), half-tones (6 minutes), softening (5 minutes), more about softening (9 minutes), reinstatement and blocking in (10 minutes), highlighting (9 minutes), painting with oil (7 minutes), highlighting in oil (9 minutes), how to soften mid-tones (7 minutes), reinstated traced lines (9 minutes), final highlights and final shading with oil (10 minutes). 115 minutes in all.
“I love the videos and guide to St. Martha – this is exactly the kind of information I was looking for!” (Virginia Robbins, Boston, US)
What happens next? Just click here, fill in your details, and you’ll jump to a page where you will get the e-book and password for the videos.
“This e-book is FULL of great information. And seeing it being done just makes it even easier to understand” (Francesca Boone, New Jersey, US)
Afterwards, write to me with any questions, and I’ll reply.
“I really appreciate your time and generous help. Your program seems to be the most complete in information of the entire picture of painting glass” (Dave Kimmel, Pennsylvania, US)
65 pages. 5 step-by-step projects. 11 designs. 14 videos (1 hour 45 minutes). Money-back guarantee. Just $13.95. Buy now
Topics include: the 7 key benefits of working with oil, how to prepare a perfect batch of oil-based glass paint and how to store it, the different media you can use, how to clean your brushes, firing – 4 key strategies for working with oil, how to use oil on top of unfired water-based paint and give your painting real depth: all for $13.95 – buy now
P.S. Oil is not for everyone. So just be sure of this: if you’re fed up with dust and waste and paint-loss in the kiln, and if you want to learn how to shade beautifully and at your own pace, this ebook and these videos will give you what you’re looking for. Yes, nearly two hours of video to watch and copy – how to paint a full-sized stained glass face:
- Overview (15 minutes)
- How to prepare your glass (4 minutes)
- Undercoating (3 minutes)
- Copy-tracing a face (10 minutes)
- Half-tones (6 minutes)
- Softening and shading (5 minutes)
- More about softening and shading (9 minutes)
- Reinstatement and blocking in (10 minutes)
- Highlighting (9 minutes)
- Painting with oil (7 minutes)
- Highlighting in oil (9 minutes)
- How to soften mid-tones (7 minutes)
- The final traced lines (9 minutes)
- The final highlights and final shading with oil (10 minutes)
When you download this guide to oil-based glass painting for just $13.95, you also get immediate access to all these online video demonstrations. Click here for immediate access
“Wonderful Stephen! These videos are just wonderful! The wealth of knowledge in them is just astounding. If you only knew what troubles I went through initially to find the ‘correct’ information as I started off into the world of glass painting” (John Olsen, Ohio, US)
Glass Painting Techniques & Secrets – Part 2: Advanced glass painting with Oil