From the category archives:

Questions and answers

Your trace lines – your outlines, or contour lines – these lines can only be as good as your paint and tracing brush allow. So if your glass paint is badly mixed, or your tracing brush is wrongly shaped and loaded, your trace lines can’t be right. End of story.

That’s why today I want to show you the right and the wrong way to load your tracing brush. I just ask three minutes of your time, that’s all I’ll take, and in return you’ll see the difference.

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Today four more useful reminders for you

Stephen’s four reminders last time were: oil, flooding, holding firm on pricing, and being comfortable when you work.

Now it’s my turn to look back on 2011 and also take you forward to the coming year.

1. Racing to trace vs. pacing your tracing

First up, tracing – specifically, what you must do to trace well. I don’t care how many times we mention this (repetition works).

Every week we hear from people whose whole approach has drastically improved – just because they stopped racing to trace and started focusing more on their palette.

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Four techniques

Take a few minutes to remind yourself about these four important glass painting techniques

The year is coming to an end.

Your best skills are needed more than ever.

That’s why it’s so important you look back and take account of all the things you’ve learned here these past 12 months.

So this week and next, we’ll select a handful of techniques you must master absolutely. I’ll start right now with …

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A colleague from the Netherlands asks us something really useful:

“As a novice, I have a burning question.

Say I experiment with your technique: so I paint an undercoat and then copy-trace the main lines from the design.

Now what if I make a mistake during tracing. What is the best procedure for correcting this mistake without ruining the work I’ve already done?”

This is such an excellent question, we’ll approach the answer from several different directions.

First, though, let’s step back a bit and give some context to the question. [click to continue…]

Essential Glass Painting Check-List

Here’s a check-list for anyone who’s starting out as a stained glass painter:

  1. Keep in touch with us
  2. Glass paint and mixing bowl, gum Arabic, media (water and/or oil), light box, palettes, palette knives, paint covers, painting bridge / arm rest, jam jars, badger blender, wide narrow brushes, tracing brushes, various sticks, needles, scrubs, kiln, kiln trays and kiln controller
  3. Keep in touch with us, yes! [click to continue…]

Fire-Polishing – What is It?

Fire-polished stained glass

by David Williams

Ivo de Croock wrote to us from Antwerp, Belgium, and asked what we meant by the term “fire-polishing”.

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Tom Ansell wrote and asked us whether we’d used lead-free glass paints.

We hadn’t.

So we decided to give them a try.

And here’s what we discovered.

We used Reusche’s Series 5 tracing black (E401) and bistre brown (E402).

Now series 5 is flagged as lead and cadmium free, which is all good and fine. But we would remind you that, whilst using these paints, you must still be aware of the danger of inhaling dust.

When preparing our lump, we used exactly the same procedure as we always do. The only difference was that we prepared about half our usual quantity.

The first thing we noticed was the incredible creaminess of the paint.

Stained glass painting with lead-free paints

So smooth and creamy ...

We imagine it was a bit like wearing a satin shirt when you’re used to good hard-wearing cotton … (Not that we’d know.)

Just mixed, it was a little tricky to get to flow smoothly. But that’s also what we’d expect of our paint that isn’t lead-free. So we covered it up and left it overnight.

And here’s where we discovered something really interesting.

Next morning, the lump hadn’t dried up as much as we’d expected it to.

Stained glass painting with lead-free paints

Surprisingly usable the morning after ...

This wasn’t down to how we’d sealed and covered it: we did the same as we always do.

Nor was it down to the temperature in the studio: we compared it with some ordinary tracing paint that we’d also been using the day before.

So we suspect it’s connected with the size of grain, which may also explain the extraordinary creaminess of the paint.

Now why is this an interesting discovery?

Leave aside that the paint is lead and cadmium free – the slow-drying property of this paint might be particularly useful to glass painters who work in hotter climates than we have here in overcast and cloud-bound England.

Why?

Because, even uncovered and in use, the lump remained creamier for longer, and overall needed less attention.

Overall, we continued to find the creaminess a little bit unsettling.

We imagine it was a bit like driving a Jaguar XKR 5.0 V8 Supercharged Convertible when (like me) you’re used to cycling.

Stained glass painting with lead-free paints

The paint loaded nicely, although its smoothness and creaminess take a bit of getting used to

That is, perhaps a little too smooth for our own personal taste and experience.

But maybe something that I’d get used to.

In fact, if England were hot, then I’d jolly well make myself get used to it.

And my test pieces fired just fine on the usual firing schedule. Here’s one of the silhouette tiles that you’ll find in Part 2 of the e-book:

Stained glass painting with lead-free paint

Excellent finish after firing

And here’s a leaf that we often paint on our glass painting courses in the studio. It uses softened lines as explained in Part 3 of the e-book:

leaf

Also fine for softened lines and shading

Our conclusion is that Series 5 is worth looking at, not just for reasons of health and safety, but also on account of its moisture-retaining property.

All the same, we ourselves will continue to use the standard lead-based stained glass paints as used for hundreds of years now.

Gold

by David Williams

Becky D., from Stoke-on-Trent, England, asked about gold paint.

“I am currently painting an art nouveau style lady for a centre insert into a leaded light. I’m mainly using antique browns and silver stain, possibly with some coloured enamel details for jewels. Now the customer has asked if it is possible to use gold on the headpeice. Do you know if gold paint is available anywhere? So far I can only find hobby paint, and I don’t wish to use that!”

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